Review: Thillai Pandia’s, a South Indian restaurant on Great Junction Street

I was pretty impressed by Thillai Pandia’s appearance on Great Junction Street before I’d even tried the Indian restaurant. It is replacing “Up the Junction”, a spot I had eaten at several times but never got around to reviewing. The first thing I noticed was the branded delivery van, with its black-and-gold livery, which represents a significant early investment for an Indian restaurant that has just opened.

Thillai Pandia’s is bright and clean on the inside with big TV screens showing lots of interesting food options behind the counter. Despite the counter and the screens, it is not a fast-food restaurant. You can sit down and enjoy table service. The menu is specialised; you can order dosas, biryanis, and some curries. In a way, it is a smaller, more selective menu than those of other Indian restaurants in the city.

A Biryani Specialist?

I don’t think I have a favourite biryani place in Edinburgh to go to. I think there might be a short list of biryani specialists if I tried to put one together, and Thillai Pandia’s would definitely make the list.

The chicken biryani and the ghee biryani I have had there have been fantastic. If I go back again, and I have no reason to boycott the place, I will try the Chef’s Special curries. I am most curious about their fish curry, but I am also intrigued by a very small selection of Scottish hybrid foods. We can have chips and paneer curry or chips and chicken curry. Chips and prawn curry seem quite safe to me.

Thillai’s is interesting because they have a meaty small course starter menu. I’ve had the Chicken 65 and the Chicken Pepper Fry as starters when I’ve been there, and you get a small ball of protein. For me, this is a nice way to start a meal before you dig into the heavy rice of a biryani.

What I will say, though, is that I didn’t understand that my chicken biryani, described as having tender chicken and homegrown masala, would contain chicken legs. I know that’s the authentic way to do it. No objections, though; the chicken was absolutely delicious and tender.

Clinical Comfort

I have a big stomach, and I am very hard to fill up, but Thillai Pandia’s has managed it. I was particularly impressed with what happened when I ordered some bread to go with my food. I ordered a paratha because adding rice to a biryani dish is completely redundant, and there were few other choices.

When the bread came out, the waiter explained that he thought it was best served with curry rather than biryani. For free, he gave me a bowl of curry sauce to dip the bread in, and he was right. It made such a difference. My plan would have been to use the bread to wrap around rice and chicken in the biryani, but the paratha was possibly a bit too thick and flaky for that. I was impressed that Thillai Pandia’s didn’t oppose my order or just suggest an alternative; they simply solved the problem.

As much as I like the decor, I think the venue is caught between two worlds. It feels bright and clean, which I like, but it doesn’t necessarily feel like a special occasion restaurant. It is not cosy and homely; it is a bit clinical. It leans more towards fast food than tender home-cooked food, although that is an illusion because the quality is certainly not fast food; the dishes are much more high-end than I expected.

Perhaps it has made the right call, because it does look like an oasis of light whenever I walk along Great Junction Street in the dark, and it smells delicious as I pass. I think the takeaway business might be the deciding factor in this restaurant’s future.

Things to do in Leith

Great Junction Street is in the heart of Leith, a vibrant area with plenty to offer. If you are visiting, the historic Scotch Malt Whisky Society has its spiritual and members-only home at The Vaults on Giles Street, offering an unparalleled selection of single cask whiskies.

For entertainment, the Edinburgh Playhouse is just a short walk or bus ride up Leith Walk, hosting major touring musicals and shows. If you are travelling to Edinburgh to visit, Trainline is your best bet for reaching Waverley Station, which is well-connected to Leith by Lothian Buses and the tram network.

Overall

I am not sure how many people would head to North Junction Street for a night out; people might just head up into Leith Walk or further up into the centre of town. However, Thillai Pandia’s might become a hit with local students. The price is very competitive; the chicken biryani was about £12, and a veg biryani was about £10. They also do meal deals, such as a chicken biryani with a Chicken 65 for £14.

They have a pretty decent website as well, and I would be happy to order from it. It is definitely a place to explore if you are curious.