Review: The Fort, a collaboration of craft brewers on South Fort Street

The Fort on South Fort Street is a brand new venue, replacing The Village, an infamous bar that finally closed around 2020 after a decade or two of noise complaints. Licensing authorities have decided to give the location another chance, and I imagine significant soundproofing has been installed.

Why am I interested in a small bar on South Fort Street, especially when the Leith area is absolutely blessed with so many great pubs? The reason is simple: The Fort is a collaboration between three local Edinburgh breweries. Moonwake Beer Co., Pilot Beer, and Barney’s Beer are all involved, and those are three fantastic breweries.

The Fort has only recently opened, yet I have already visited twice. I haven’t become a barfly, I promise, but I think this return rate is a good sign.

A Trinity of Brewers

As you would expect, you can get Moonwake, Pilot, and Barney’s beer at The Fort, but they are also offering up experimental cocktails. In this context, “experimental” seems to mean a cocktail with some familiar names mixed with parts that are off the beaten track.

For example, I had a Cranachan White Negroni, and yes, I would have it again. It was very tasty. However, I might struggle to stick to cocktails at this venue, given the volume-to-price ratio compared with the fantastic beer on offer.

I have found the staff to be very friendly. The locals I met during my visit were also very friendly, which is important. One of the big fears with resurrecting an old pub is that the “old locals” come back. I don’t know anybody who went to the building previously, but given the history of noise complaints, there seems to be a legacy of trouble. It was pleasing to see familiar faces at The Fort when I was there last, and I can’t imagine any of them causing trouble.

L-Shaped Logistics

It is an L-shaped bar. When you walk in on the corner of the aisle, you can go straight ahead into a small nook that ends in a pool table. Alternatively, you can turn right and sit in a slightly more spacious area or head along the busy bar.

There are two sets of kegs in front of you as you walk in, and of course, the standard rows of spirits behind the bar staff at the back.

My one criticism so far is that the L-shape is a bit awkward. It is the building’s shape, so there is not much they can do about it. You walk in through the side entrance, though the architect could have used another potential entrance, and you are immediately in front of the keg taps.

This will be a bottleneck as the bar gets popular. It was very, very busy on Saturday, buzzing rather than crowded. The problem is that people who come in stop to consider their drinks, while people already in the bar tend to look at the kegs when they come up to order. This funnels everyone into the narrowest part of the design. Maybe that will change as people become more familiar with what’s on tap and order from anywhere in the bar, but currently, the tendency is to stop and stare.

It seems a weird thing to call out as a positive, but I was extremely impressed by the shiny black new toilets. They are very clean and very reassuring.

Things to Do in Leith

The Fort is around the corner and a block away from the TV-famous Sabzi. It’s also within walking distance of the newly opened Dogstar and, therefore, the Port of Leith Distillery and its tour.

The Leith Theatre is also just around the corner and a block (in the opposite direction from Sabzi) away, and if The Fort had been some chain-owned pub, I wouldn’t recommend the connection ,but it may well appeal to fellow craft beer fans. Ferry Road is also home to several indie art galleries.

Overall

I am very pleased that there is a nice, sweet pub in this area. It feels like a fresh start for the venue. Despite the minor architectural bottleneck, the atmosphere is buzzing, the facilities are top-tier, and the beer selection is, naturally, excellent.

Recommended.