Review: McLaren’s on the Corner, a lively gastropub at Holy Corner

I like McLaren’s on the Corner. It sits at the top of Morningside, right at Holy Corner, acting as the guardian to the area as you approach from Bruntsfield and Princes Street. It is an imposing, handsome building (formerly a bank) that has been transformed into a bustling social hub.

My first impressions are always of a venue that knows exactly what it is. It is busy, often chaotic, but manages to hold it all together with a certain charm. Whether you are upstairs or down, there is a sense that this is the place to be if you are a local looking for a lively evening out.

The Social Hub of Morningside

One of the most prominent features of McLaren’s is its ability to cope with crowds. Upstairs can host a school reunion; I have seen (and been in) large groups of people rocking up to celebrate 30th- or 40th-anniversary meet-ups, and the staff seem to take it all in their stride. They are attentive and tolerant, which they have to be when dealing with spirited conversations and friends catching up after a decade. George Watson’s College is down the road, which might explain all the reunions.

The crowd itself is a slice of Morningside life. You will often find the “social elite” here – expect rugby shirts, the occasional pram that might cost more than my flat, even kilts and wedding parties, and a myriad of animated conversations. It is not a place for a quiet, introspective pint. If you can’t cope with crowds, don’t go. But if you want a vibrant atmosphere, this is it.

Downstairs is slightly different from the (I suspect) private event only of upstairs. I strongly recommend booking. If you risk a walk-in, you might end up in the reserved seats by the front door. These are tall and comfortable enough, but they can be crowded compared to the spacious back of the restaurant. The venue even boasts a fancy open fire pit in the garden area, a “fire hood” contraption that adds a lovely touch to the outdoor seating, making it a year-round destination.

A Feast for the Hungry (But maybe skip dessert)

McLaren’s is more than just a pub; it is a pretty solid restaurant. The menu is reliable, with a strong focus on hearty, satisfying meals. I really recommend the burgers, particularly the chicken burger or “The Goat”. The Goat is a bit of a masterpiece—two burger patties, truffle oil, rocket, goats’ cheese and bacon jam. It is a very cheesy, tasty burger.

The burgers come with fries, which are good, but I often find that a side of Mac & Cheese is just what your brain needs to convince it you are truly full. The steaks are also worth a mention. While some of the larger cuts push the price up, you can get a sirloin for under £30, which is reasonable for the quality and the area.

If I have a criticism, it is that the desserts can be a bit of a lottery. They aren’t bad, but they can be underwhelming. I once ordered a Knickerbocker Glory, expecting a giant, towering masterpiece of ice cream and fruit. Instead, I received a modest little scoop in a tub. Perhaps if I were a Morningside granddad, I would prefer the restraint, but I wanted something lush. My advice? Fill up on the excellent savoury mains and maybe risk the dessert only if you are feeling lucky.

Things to do in Morningside

Morningside is a foodie’s paradise and a great base for exploring Edinburgh. If you are visiting from outside the city, you can catch a train to Edinburgh Waverley or Haymarket via TheTrainLine and then jump in a taxi or a Lothian Bus up the road.

Culture vultures are well served here. The Dominion Cinema is a classic art deco gem just down the road, and the Church Hill Theatre is practically across the street. If you are looking for bigger West End-style shows, the Edinburgh Playhouse is a short taxi ride away.

Overall

All in all, I think McLaren’s on the Corner is absolutely worth your time. It knows its audience, mostly locals and theatre-goers spilling out from the Dominion or Church Hill, and it serves them well. It is competitive with its pricing, despite the posh location; you can have a great burger meal for under £30, or splash out £40 if you include drinks and that risky dessert. Just remember to book ahead, or you might find yourself perched by the door watching the rugby shirts breeze past.