Review: Brown’s of Leith, the Shore

A successful trip to Brown’s of Leith began an hour before closing on a Thursday. I pulled open the doors, stepped inside, and found it pretty busy, but managed to snag a table.

I was finally able to sit, eat, and drink after my third visit. The first two were failures; no empty tables and barely any standing space. This is unusual because Brown’s of Leith is a rather large converted ship-repair warehouse, so you would imagine there would be boatloads of space. In fact, if you didn’t know it was there, it would be very easy to miss. I am still worried about the venue’s viability, despite people coming from across the city to pry open these former shipbuilding doors, buy expensive coffee, and sit in for a while.

The Warehouse Vibe

Though I say it’s barely converted, it is really intelligently done. I think it is far more “converted” than it appears at first glance. Installing all the kitchens for Civerinos, the pizza place, and Shrimp Wreck’s Shuck Bar must have been pretty significant in its own right. The layout is clever, and the tables make good use of the space.

There are several large tables that you will share with people unless you rock up with an after-work party. I suspect that, having worked in the area, I know exactly what some office groups will do. The fact that there is plenty of room for pushchairs and prams is, I think, part of the attraction.

I was very impressed by the ceiling, which features far infrared heaters. My science might be rusty, but these heaters emit an infrared beam that passes harmlessly through the air until it hits something like a table or you. At that point, it generates heat. Needless to say, it is quite warm in there, and there is no shortage of these heaters in the ceiling.

Shrimp Wreck and Haze

It is a bit problematic that there is no waitstaff to ask what you want (that I noticed in any of my visits – but food can sometimes come to you). Instead, you have to guard your table. I decided to risk it, leaving my bag and coat on the seat, and wandered over to the food end of the warehouse.

There is a Civerinos, the pizza slice people, but I have been to Civerinos in other locations and was very curious about Shrimp Wreck. That is where I placed my dinner order. I can thoroughly recommend the Lobster Roll. It is £20, but it is a large portion and comes with salad and crisps.

I then popped over to the Haze bar. They have a lovely selection of wine, which is a little bit posh for me, and £6 tins of beer. I sprang for one, even though Moonwake Beer Co is around the corner for a possibly better deal. But there you go; it is the honour of eating and drinking in.

It took me longer to order the food than it did to arrive – a symptom of their popularity. But despite the price and the busy, perhaps hipster-ish vibe, it is really good. It is not too loud; you can sit and chat.

Things to do in Leith

Leith feels like it is constantly evolving. I thought it had stopped “coming up” and was simply “merelying up,” but venues like this suggest there is further to go. Browns of Leith is run by the Customs Lane people, a venue I have used for work and shows before and always found to be particularly well-run.

If you are visiting the area, getting here is easier than ever. You can book tickets via The Trainline to Edinburgh Waverley and take a short bus or tram ride down to the Shore. For those looking to stay nearby, Native Places offers stylish aparthotels that fit the Leith aesthetic perfectly, or you can find great deals on Booking.com. If you have come from that far, then check out the Leith Distrillery tour and, should you need it, buy a skull.

For activities, why not explore the local history or food scene with a tour from GetYourGuide? It’s a great way to understand the transformation from shipbuilding hub to culinary destination.

Overall

I am very pleased that my first Shrimp Wreck experience was a good one. I don’t consider Haze to be a detriment to the location, even if I find it a bit pricey, and I am desperate to go back and try the Civerinos. I need to try every Civerinos in Edinburgh; I think that is an achievable goal. Brown’s of Leith seems to be part of the trend of exciting things coming to the area. Recommended.